Road salt keeps Northeast Ohio’s roads drivable from November through March, and it is hard on cars. Salt lowers the freezing point of water, which is exactly why it works on ice, and exactly why it keeps the underside of your car wet and corrosive long after the snow is gone.
Most rust advice is about appearance: bubbling paint on a fender, a rotted rocker panel. At Rad Air, we do not repair body rust. What we do repair, every winter and spring, is what rust breaks underneath the car: brake lines, exhaust parts, springs and the hardware that holds it all together. That is the rust worth worrying about, and most of it is invisible from the driveway.
Wash your car after a snowstorm. It does help to wash the salt off as soon as you can. It is tempting to skip a mid-winter wash because the car will just get dirty again, but these washes are not cosmetic. They are preventive care. Do not forget the undercarriage.
Rinse the underside; do not blast it. Getting salt off the underside is the point, but a pressure washer wand held close can force water past the seals on the transfer case, differentials and axles. An automatic wash with an underbody rinse is generally the safer choice.
Stick to a regular car wash schedule. Even without a major storm, salt and brine go down on roads and parking lots all winter. Aim to wash your car at least every two weeks, and take advantage of days above 40 degrees.
Wash after dry, pretreated days too. Road crews often spray liquid brine before a storm arrives. It dries into a film you may not notice, and it is just as corrosive as the salt that comes later.
Try not to follow the plow. When you find yourself directly behind a salt truck, you can hear the salt hitting your car. If you have the option, change lanes or give it plenty of room.
Steer clear of puddles. Salt collects in standing water, so avoid giving your car a salt bath when you can.
Wax your car before winter. Wax gives the paint a protective coating against road salt.
Get a seasonal inspection. A certified technician can spot weak brake lines, rusted exhaust hangers and worn suspension parts before winter puts them under load, which is far better than finding them on the side of the road in February.
Body rust is ugly. These are the parts that fail, and they are the ones Rad Air replaces most often once salt season ends.
Brake lines. Thin steel tubes run the length of the frame to carry brake fluid to each wheel. They corrode from the outside in, and a corroded line can burst under hard braking. Signs include a soft or sinking brake pedal, wet spots near a wheel or along the frame, and the brake warning light. Any of those means stop driving and have the brakes inspected.
The exhaust system. Heat shields usually go first, with a tinny rattle at idle. Clamps, hangers and pipes follow. An exhaust leak under the cabin is not just loud. If you ever smell exhaust inside the car, open the windows, stop driving and get it checked.
Coil springs and suspension links. Springs that rust can snap, and sway bar links seize or break. The signs are a clunk over bumps, a car that sits lower at one corner, or new uneven tire wear.
Parking brake cables. A cable that rusts inside its sleeve can stick, leaving a rear brake dragging after you release the parking brake.
Wiring and sensors. Salt attacks electrical connections. Corroded wheel speed sensors and their wiring can trigger the ABS or traction control light, and corroded battery terminals cause hard starts that look like a bad battery.
Fuel lines and tank straps. Steel fuel lines and the straps that hold the tank corrode the same way brake lines do. A fuel smell under the car is a reason to stop driving.
Road salt does its real damage underneath the car, on brake lines, exhaust parts and springs. Regular undercarriage rinses through the winter and an inspection in the fall and spring catch most of it before a part fails on the road.
Twice a year works for most Northeast Ohio drivers. Once in the fall, before salt season puts weak parts under load, and once in the spring, after the salt is gone and the damage is easier to see.
Snow itself does not cause rust, but when it melts, the moisture combined with road salt speeds up corrosion. Long exposure to wet, salty conditions leads to rust on metal surfaces that are not cleaned or protected.
Wash the underside regularly through the winter to remove salt and grime, using a rinse rather than a close-range pressure washer near the drivetrain seals. An undercarriage sealant or rust-proofing treatment applied before winter adds protection. A fall inspection catches parts that are already weak.
Bare, exposed steel can show surface rust within days to weeks in wet, salty conditions. Damage to brake lines, exhaust parts and springs builds over several winters, which is why it often seems to appear all at once.
Road salt does not need neutralizing, because it is not an acid. It needs dissolving and rinsing away, and plain water does that. Warm water works faster. Focus on the undercarriage, wheel wells and the crevices where salt collects, and keep washing regularly through the winter.
The parts underneath: brake lines, exhaust components, coil springs, suspension links, parking brake cables and electrical connections. These are safety and reliability problems, not just cosmetic ones.
One common cause in salt-belt states is a corroded brake line that has started to leak. Stop driving and have the brakes inspected right away.
We hope these tips help you prevent the rust and corrosion that road salt causes. Let us know if you have any questions, or schedule an inspection online at any of Rad Air’s 12 Northeast Ohio locations.